dog-agility-equipment-diy[/caption]DIY: How to Make Your Own Dog Agility Course
One of our amazing dogs is a Lagotto Romagnolo. He is one of only about 1,000 of the rare breed in the country.
Luke is a beauty. Unfortunately, he is about 10 pounds and an inch or so outside the breed standard, so he can’t compete in a show ring. My husband, ever vigilant to bring the Lagotto breed to the public’s attention, decided Luke would be an awesome agility champion.
Canine agility competitions represent one of the fastest-growing sports in the United States. Agility courses are designed to demonstrate athletic ability and stamina as well as the team effort between the handler and the dog.
Official canine agility trials originated in Birmingham, England, in 1978. The American Kennel Clubsanctioned the sport in the US in 1994. Today there are more than 2,000 AKC competitions across the country. It is a spectator sport enjoyed by young and old alike.
Don’t Miss: Top 10 Dog Agility Breeds
The Right Gear
When planning our backyard agility course, we researched the AKC regulation equipment along with expert training guidelines.
Several pet equipment companies offer an online catalog of sanctioned gear, so we ordered a base supply of weave poles, jumps, tunnel, teeter board and a pause table. The expensive equipment arrived a short time later. My husband opened the boxes to discover what appeared to be debris from a plumbing construction site along with instructions for assembly.
I am not saying our purchase was misrepresented. Indeed, the equipment is standard gear — but a trip to any home improvement store and a 20-minute Internet search would have save us a considerable amount of money. I will pass our lesson, including cost-saving tips, along to Petful readers.
Agility 101
A basic canine agility course consists of:
- Jumps (standard pole and tire)
- Tunnels
- Teeter
- Weave poles
- Pause table
The equipment used for an agility course is regulated by height and width and determined by size and breed of dog. When you start assembling your backyard course, consider space and refer to the AKC agility information for your dog’s recommended adjustments.
Make Your Own Dog Agility Course
Standard Jump — Retails for $50-$200
Jumps represent the core of the obstacle course. Jumps are presented in a variety of complex configurations including winged, wingless, double jumps and spread jumps. Each more complicated but with the same essential construction of poly vinyl chloride (PVC) pipes. PVC pipes are used in modern plumbing projects (and countless DIY projects), and an impressive array of PVC pipes and fittings is available at any plumbing supply or home improvement store.
The standard jump (hurdle) we purchased for $115 (not including shipping, handling or taxes) consisted of the same stuff you can buy yourself much cheaper individually:
- 4 – 18 inch length PVC pipes (PVC pipe is sold at Lowe’s Home Improvement Stores for $3.02 per 5 ft length, and they will cut your required length for free)
- 2 – 2 ¾ inch length PVC pipes
- 3 – 4 inch length PVC pipes
- 4 PVC T’s ($4.50 each)
- 4 PVC end caps (68 cents each)
Approximate cost of DIY standard jump: $17.50
Tire Jump — Retails for $120-$175
The tire jump was possibly our biggest surprise. We had assumed from the catalog pictures that the brightly colored apparatus was a technological marvel. The reality: Not so much. Here is the list of what you will need to make your own professional tire jump — just like those used in sanctioned meets:
- 4 – 18 inch length of 1 inch PVC pipe
- 2 – 36 inch length of 1 inch PVC pipe
- 4 – 1 1/2 inch PVC elbows ($2 each)
- 2 – PVC T’s ($4.50 each)
- 1 – flex drain pipe measured and cut to fit your dog’s girth, 8 feet length ($5.50)
- 1 – drain coupler ($2)
- 1 – 12 inch length link chain ($1 per ft)
- 3 rolls duct tape (1 red, 1 white, 1 blue) ($3.50 per roll)
Approximate cost of DIY tire jump: $45
Weave Poles — Retail for $50 per section
Weave poles test a dog’s agility and ability to navigate the complex order of the poles. We bought a run of four sets (two poles per set) for $200. The same PVC pipes can accomplish a regulation weave pole apparatus for $9. To complete the project you will need:
- 8 – 36 inch length PVC pipes
- 4 – 18 inch length PCV pipes
- 2 – ¼ inch PVC pipes
- 10 – PVC T’s ($4.50 each)
Approximate cost for a four-set run of DIY obstacle weave poles: $65
Tunnel — Retails for $175-$200
The tunnel was a bit more complex. Because of the wiring and construction of the actual tunnel, I just shopped for a child’s play tunnel. I found a 6 ft collapsible tunnel for under $25 at Toys R Us. Add four small landscape fabric pins for anchors at $4 for a bag of 25, and you have a DIY obstacle tunnel for less than $30— and no assembly!
Teeter Board — Retails for $50-$75
Think of an old-fashioned child’s see saw, and you have the image of an agility teeter board. To build your own teeter board, assemble:
- 8 – 1 inch 90-degree PVC elbows ($2 each)
- 6 – PVC T’s ($4.50 each)
- 4 – 2 ¼ inch PVC pipes
- 5 – 5 ½ inch PVC pipes
- 9 – 12 inch PVC pipes
- 1 – 10 inch PVC pipe
- 1 – 2 inch x 10 inch board ($7)
- 2 – 6 inch pipe straps ($1.50)
- Assorted screws (screw kit, $4)
- Astroturf or grass carpet for cover, 4 ft x 8 ft rug ($20)
Approximate cost of DIY teeter board: $82
Assuming you can recycle materials from other projects, you can reduce production expenses. Otherwise, it may be better to just buy a teeter board.
Pause Table — Retails for $80-$180
Depending on the size of your dog, pause tables can range significantly in price. Their purpose is to provide a break for your dog to regroup and stay during meets. Their ability to stay on the pause table is scored, so it is an important training routine.
A visit to a local utility provider or warehouse supply company may be your best source for the base of a pause table. Ask for cable spools. They are sturdy and do not tip easily. Some utility companies discard the spools when the cable has been used. In addition to the base you will need:
- Particle board cut to cover the top of the spool, 24 inches x 48 inches ($8)
- Astroturf or grass carpet to cover the board, 4 ft x 8 ft rug ($20)
- Tacks or carpet glue to fasten the carpet to the board, 8 ounces ($3.50)
Approximate cost of DIY pause table: less than $30
More Cost-Cutting Tips
The cost estimates for the agility course projects detailed are based on buying all materials at retail. Additional savings may be realized by:
- Shopping thrift stores, yard sales and flea markets for materials
- Looking for discount sale items
- Recycling materials from around the house
- Browsing online “for sale by owner” sites like eBay and Craigslist for used agility equipment
Help and Instructions
The American Kennel Club website is a great source of information to consider when planning agility courses and training for your dog. I also found that Caninecrib.com provided an excellent, easy DIY manual for assembling each piece of agility equipment. That online guide comes complete with step-by-step instructions and pictures.
Be sure to check with your veterinarian before beginning agility training to ensure your dog is physically capable. Do not push him beyond his comfortable physical limits.
As for my dog, Luke, I am not sure he will ever compete at the national level for an agility championship. I do know the mental stimulation and physical exercise we all enjoy as a result of the agility training is the true benefit. It doesn’t take a ribbon or trophy to see our dog is a real champion in our book!
Photos, top to bottom: tretjakovgallery, greengardenvienna, N8tr0n, arkuin, Daisyree Bakker, arkuin and arkuin/Flickr
* * *
How to Build a Pet Agility Course
You have your tricked-out media room. The kids have their backyard playground. But what about your dog? We think this oh-so-important family member deserves a special home recreation area too.
Which is why we recommend getting everyone together this weekend and building her an agility course. Not only will it give you and your family some quality bonding time with your favorite canine, the workout the course can provide will be great for your dog's health, behavior, and longevity. "Active dogs tend to keep fluid in their joints longer, which lessens the effects of aging," says Carrie DeYoung of the American Kennel Club. And watching your pup fly over hurdles, whip around poles, and balance herself on a teeter-totter provides way more family entertainment than watching TV or playing video games. Here's how to build your dog's rec area.
Plan to make one of these? Show us the finished project and you could be featured in This Old House magazine
Cut List for Pet Agility Course
ILLUSTRATION BY JENNIFER STIMPSON
Clean the printing off the pipes using clear PVC cleaner (optional). Mark each section of pipe to length using the cut list below. Cut all the sections using a pull saw. Write the length of each section at the end of the pipe where the marking will later be covered by a connector or end cap.
Cut List
(All 1½-inch pipe, unless otherwise noted)
Agility Jump
8 @ 12 inches
2 @ 48 inches
2 @ 5½ inches
2 @ 6½ inches
2 @ 15¼ inches
Weave Poles
4 @ 18½ inches
2 @ 12 inches
2 @ 24 inches
6 @ 40 inches
Teeter-Totter
8 @ 3¼ inches
8 @ 19 inches
4 @ 14½ inches
4 @ 12-inch
1 @ 12 inches (2-inch pipe)
Download all the plans for this project here.
Plan to make one of these? Show us the finished project and you could be featured in This Old House magazine
Jump Bars
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
This jump bar helps Fido build up his hindquarters and develop a better sense of boundaries. It also helps breeds that are prone to hip problems (such as Labs and German shepherds) improve strength and agility.
Cut the Bar Rests
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
To create the cups on which the ends of the jump bars rest, mark four tees at the center outlet on one side of the middle line. Insert a scrap piece of pipe in one end of the tee to hold on to, and clamp the other end of the tee to a work surface. Cut the line using a pull saw, then turn the tee and cut parallel to it to remove the larger side of the center outlet. The leftover cup will hold the jump bars in place while allowing them to dislodge easily so that your dog can't be injured.
Assemble the Jump
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Assemble one side of the jump in this order: tee, 5½-inch pipe, cut tee, 6½-inch pipe, cut tee, 15¼-inch pipe, and end cap.
Using a block and a hammer, push each connection together until the pipe rests against the shoulder inside the connectors. The center of each cup should sit 8 inches and 16 inches from the ground. To hold the sides upright, insert a 12-inch pipe into each outlet of the bottom tee; fit one with an end cap and one with another tee. Push two 12-inch pipes fitted with end caps into the base tee to steady the assembly.
Assemble the second side. Connect the two sides by resting a 48-inch pipe between them. Wrap four strips of red tape around each jump bar and several around each side to increase the jump's visibility.
Weave Poles
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
A series of six weave poles keeps your dog agile by working his joints and muscles. Start with three, then add more as your pooch progresses.
Connect the Base Pieces
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
To be sure the base pieces for the weave polls won't spin, first connect each 18½-inch piece to the side of a tee. Tap the pipes tight into the tees using a block and a hammer. Drill a hole through the tee into the pipe using a drill/driver fitted with a 1/16-inch bit. Connect the two with a 1-inch set screw.
Align the Poles
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Attach the tee-pipe pairs to create one long line. Insert a 12-inch pipe into the tees on either end of the run and fit each with an elbow, a 24-inch pipe, and an end cap. Insert a 40-inch pipe fitted with an end cap into each of the six tees. Lay the entire row on its side on a flat surface to keep all the tee outlets parallel. Mark a line that crosses in between each tee and pipe between the uprights so that you can keep them lined up the right way when you put the screw in. Using a drill/driver, drill a hole at each connection, making sure the mark stays aligned. Secure these connections with 1-inch set screws.
Add End Supports
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Straighten the polls vertically while pushing the legs at either end to opposite sides of the polls to create a large Z shape. When the weave polls are straight up and down, drill and sink a set screw through both ends of each elbow on either end of the polls. Wrap two strips of blue tape at the top and bottom of each weave poll and one strip in the center.
Teeter-Totter
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Doing a balancing act on a teeter-totter helps dogs gain confidence and trust your commands—particularly "come," "stop," and "stay"—as you help them over it.
Find the Plank Balance Point
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Mark the tipping point of the teeter-totter at 5 feet along a 12-by-8-inch laminated shelving board. Positioning this fulcrum away from the entry side of the teeter-totter will slow the drop rate once the dog crosses it. Mark two lines 2 inches from either side of the fulcrum. Mark each outside line at 3 and 9 inches from the edge.
Drill for the Center Spin Pipe
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Dry-fit the holes of a 2-inch strap on the crosshairs. To create space for the head of the bolt to sit flush with the top of the plank, remove the strap and drill one-quarter the depth of each hole using a drill/driver fitted with a 5/8-inch paddle bit. Drill the rest of each hole with a 3/8-inch bit.
Bolt on the Center Spin Pipe
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Set the 12-inch length of 2-inch PVC pipe inside the straps with their holes aligned with the holes in the board. Attach the pipe-strap assembly to the board using 3/8-inch flathead bolts. Space the strap from the board with four washers at each bolt. Tighten a locknut onto each bolt using a flathead screwdriver and an adjustable wrench.
Paint the Board
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Paint the entire board with white primer. When the primer is dry, outline a 1-foot-wide area over the fulcrum with painter's tape. Paint the contact zones on either side of the board in yellow paint mixed with an antiskid additive.
Attach Balance Weights
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Use two weights to slow the descent of the board when a dog is on it. To make them, fill 12-inch lengths of pipes with gravel and cap both ends. Attach the weights as close to the end of the entry side as you can without raising the board off the ground. Secure the weights with metal strapping and 3/4-inch sheet-metal screws.
Assemble the Base
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Make the teeter-totter base by creating two box-shaped sides connected by crosspieces. To build the bottom of the first side, push together an elbow, a 19-inch pipe, a tee, another 19-inch pipe, and another elbow. Repeat to build the top. Connect the top and bottom by inserting a 3¼-inch pipe, a tee, and another 3¼-inch pipe between the elbow at each end of the top and bottom. Build a second side, and install 14½-inch pipes between the tees in the center of the bottom and sides of the frame sides. Set the frame fittings using a block and a hammer, but do not tighten the top crosspiece and one corner. Wrap stripes of yellow tape around the base to make it easier for your dog to see.
Position the Plank on the Base
PHOTO BY WENDELL T. WEBBER
Slide the 2-inch pipe on the teeter-totter plank over the crosspiece. Connect the crosspiece and the last corner. Tap all frame connections until secure.
No comments:
Post a Comment